Island Hopping: Koh Chang - Koh Kood - Koh Mak

[Piece Corp]

This is a low season trip report.  The biggest advantages of low season are lowest prices and fewest tourists.  A big disadvantage is the weather, but I wanted to shoot the falls during monsoon season.  Another disadvantage is some places and services are closed, like boat service between the islands.  During low season it's necessary to return to the mainland for each segment, adding an additional few hours to the journey.  This won't be a problem if you need access to an ATM however, since there are none on either Koh Kood or Koh Mak, but there aren't many places to spend your money there either.

 

 

KOH CHANG

 

 

I booked a mountain-facing room at the 5-star Emerald Cove Resort for 1840, including breakfast.  In December, this same room goes for 4600, sea view rooms are 7400.  The staff are getting to know me since I spent a week here last month, probably spend another week next month, maybe two.  I used to arise predawn for long swims in the 50 meter lap pool but now the pool is open 24 hours so I do my swims at midnight.

 

 

Klong Phrao Beach nearly deserted

 

 

Calm mornings, then windy all day.  Mostly overcast, but not much rain, and mainly at night.

 

 

Klong Plu Waterfall

 

 

I rented a motorbike for 160 baht to visit the bars.  More action than I expected and 5 girls per customer.

 

 

The one crossing the street caught my eye.  I returned later in the evening and bar fined her.  We used a short time in the building behind the three rows of bars.  Use of the room was 300, bar fine was 500 and ST for 1000.

 

 

Next Up: Koh Kood

[Mick Pattaya]

This is nice, a full-fledged TR on the scenic getaways from Pattaya. Photography as always is splendid.

 

One question, what are my other options to roam around if I don't want to use a bike/two wheeler, I am led to believe its pretty limited :(

[nodster]

ive been in peak season...the beaches look so different off season ....good pics piece corp ,thanks

[Piece Corp]

 

 

One question, what are my other options to roam around if I don't want to use a bike/two wheeler, I am led to believe its pretty limited :(

 

Koh Chang has public transportation, you pay a fixed price to a destination (max is 150 to Bang Bao, regardless where you board), but Koh Kood and Koh Mak have no public transportation except from the pier to your hotel, but the roads on those islands are not nearly as problematic as on Koh Chang.  No one even wears a helmet.

[Piece Corp]

KOH KOOD

 

My shared minivan arrived at the Emerald Cove at 7:15 AM and I was on the mainland by 9:30, then a transfer to the pier at Laem Sok for a 12:30 departure to Koh Kood.  Crossing takes less than 2 hours, 350 baht fare includes taxi to your hotel.

 

 

Arrive at Ao Salad, with about 300 residents it's the largest settlement on the island.

 

 

Ao Yai, second largest community, about 200

 

 

Some fresh crab in glass noodles will set you back 100 baht

 

 

The best thing about Koh Kood (aka Ko Kut), it's mostly undeveloped.  With a surface area of 160 sq km, over half the size of Koh Chang, but only a few thousand people inhabit the island.  More Jungle than mountain, a network of freshly paved roads cover about half the island, even if some are being eroded by underbrush.

 

 

One of the problems with Koh Kood is the availability of good value accommodations.  I booked the Koh Kood Beach Resort for 1750.  They were having a low season promotion, stay two nights and one night free, bringing the average cost of my bungalow down to 1170.  WiFi was only available in the common area and I couldn't go to the 7-11 to top up my prepaid sim for 3G because there are no 7-11s.

 

 

Russian babes prancing about

 

 

The pool was too small for my comfort but they had a small beach where I could have a refreshing swim in the ocean.

 

 

I wasn't impressed with the kitchen at the resort, and this is another problem with Koh Kood, as there were no other restaurants within walking distance and the resort charges 400 baht for motorbike rental.  Highway robbery!  But you might be able to get Alex to deliver a real Italian pizza from Pizza and Pasta.  Otherwise, there just aren't a lot of places to eat.  Some of the resorts have mediocre yet expensive food.

 

Some other shots from the island.

 

 

Here's where the road ends in the northwest

 

 

Around that point is the exclusive Soneva Kiri, where you can rent a 6-bedroom sea view villa with private pool for about 100,000.  The resort is only accessible by boat.  A uninhabited island nearby has a small airstrip where guests may be flown in by private plane.

 

 

But this is what I came for.  There are three waterfalls, Klong Chao is the largest and most easily assessable.

 

 

Next Up:  Koh Mak

[Mick Pattaya]

It looks pristine, I guess being underdeveloped & scarcity of modern amenities adds to the allure. When you say 'return to mainland' does it mean you have to return to Trat to catch the ferry?.

 

Suggest you move this to the general TR section where it will be much more appreciated.

[Piece Corp]

You don't have to go all the way back into Trat city but have to change piers since Koh Kood is serviced by Laem Sok and Koh Mak by Laem Ngop and they may be 20-30 km apart.

 

Koh Chang is generally less expensive than the other islands because they have the car ferry service that allows goods to be trucked in.

[Piece Corp]

KOH MAK

 

The free taxi arrived at 9:15 and by 11:30 I was back on the mainland. I had arranged for a private car to take me over to the pier at Laem Ngok for the 12:30 speedboat to Koh Mak, only 2 other passengers were on the 45 minute cruise.

 

 

I should have brought my water skiis

 

 

Koh Mak is a small, cross-shaped island, 16 sq km in area with a few hills and 27 km of coastline. They all have their own unique charm. I booked the Good Time Resort, not on the beach but at the top with some panoramic views.

 

 

Across the street was the vista point

 

 

I had a large, comfortable room for 1170, including breakfast. I rented a motorbike there for 250.

 

 

Koh Mak has many long white sand beaches

 

 

Cococape resort, closed for maintenance

 

 

 

This is 'downtown'

 

 

 

It was a very relaxing 12 days (6 days Koh Chang, 3 days Koh Kood, 3 days Koh Mak) and my total spend was under 30,000.

 

Maybe I'll do it again next month. Cheers

[beerman]

Great report. Thanks for sharing!

[Encora]

Thankfir that, PC, I think I may give that a try, too. Been to KC, but not the other two...

[plahgat]

Fantastic pictures!

 

Never been to Koh Kood, that waterfall looks inviting!

 

Plahgat

[Pinoydave]

Yesterday, I thought can I be bothered to go to Koh Chang on my next trip. Today I see your photos, looks like I'm changing my plans again!!!!

[cheetzie]

Now that's some trip resort - thanks for sharing!

[benchod]

Excellent short TR  for 30,000 it's really very cheap and great value for money .  Pc  the girl you picked up for short time is gorgeous .

[Mick Pattaya]

A brilliant pictorial TR, these small islands look so secluded & exclusive, in the low season I bet there would be handful of tourist visiting these locales.

 

What kind of nightlife is there in these islands, certainly not expecting the place to be buzzing but does it get a bit dull after a while, specially if you don't have pre-arranged company. 

[overseas516]

Excellent TR along with great photographs, many thanks for taking the time and effort in posting.

[shadowcat]

Thanks for the great report. Makes me nostalgic for low season Thailand. Sure it rains but its like going back 15 years due to the lack of tourists.Fuck I wish Iwas there now.

[BanglaRich]

Fantastic Trip Report. A nice breath of fresh air. Thanks for posting.

[Piece Corp]

Thanks for the comments.  To answer Mick, yes it can get a bit dull after a few days.

 

The Art House on Koh Mak has jam sessions 3 nights a week during high season, also one bar on Koh Kood with live music during high season, otherwise virtually no nightlife on these two islands.

 

 

On Koh Chang, there are 3 main bar areas.  The largest concentration near the Chan Buri Resort at White Sands.

 

 

Second largest concentration is at the north end of Kai Bae, near the Sir Henry Morgan Pirate Pub. 

 

 

Third largest concentration at the southern edge of White Sands across from the Roadhouse.

 

The Emerald Cove provides some complementary entertainment and also has daily activities like yoga, kayaking, Thai cooking school, and you can even arrange a free diving lesson in the pool.

 

[Mick Pattaya]

Thanks, will try & keep Ko Chang part of the next itinerary. 

[Piece Corp]

It rains a lot off-season, usually every day.  Not all day, but it may rain for a half hour 3 or 4 times during the day.  Before I moved to Thailand in '04, I lived in Palo Alto, California. 330 sunny days/yr teaches you to appreciate rain  so not a problem for me, but if I was on holiday from a climate with inclement weather then I might wish to pay the higher prices for high season.

 

[Piece Corp]

Some video of the waterfall

 

[terry007]

thanks for sharing good photos

[frankstain]

Another great trip report from yourself, thanks yet again. As I have never used one, how were the rooms behind the bar complex in whitesands?

[Piece Corp]

how were the rooms behind the bar complex in whitesands?

I would describe the rooms as 'minimal'