Wagyu vs Kobe Beef vs Tenderloin

[Evil Penevil]

Beef from wagyu is mentioned quite often on the punter boards and the Facebook food groups. Unfortunately, there's a lot of confusion as to what it really is, resulting in stupid (and unintentionally hilarious) comments.   I'm going to break down some commonly used terms, then give some  background.  Hopefully this information may be of help when you see "wagyu," "Kobe" and "tenderloin" written on a menu.

 

Wagyu

 

"Wa" means "Japan" or "Japanese style," while "gyu" means "cow" or "cattle," so wagyu translates as both "Japanese cow" and "Japanese-style cattle."  Wagyu is NOT a specific breed of cattle, nor does it necessarily guarantee high quality beef, although some posters give it that (incorrect) interpretation. Just like there can be tough, poor-quality cuts of U.S., Australian, Argentinian, etc. beef, the same can happen with Japanese beef. Wagyu should refer to the geographical origin of the beef, nothing more or less.  It gets complicated when we start talking about Australian or U.S. wagyu, i.e., Japanese-style cattle from Australia or the U.S.  More about that later. 

 

Kobe beef

 

This is the most misunderstood term of all. All Kobe beef is wagyu, but only a tiny fraction of wagyu (less than 1%) is Kobe.  The only real Kobe beef comes from the Tajima strain of Japanese Black cattle which have been raised on 262 small farms in Hyogo Prefecture in Japan. The majority of these farms produce one to five animals a year and the most any farm produces is 15.  To be considered genuine Kobe, strict standards set by the Kobe Beef Marketing & Beef Promotion Association have to be met. Only about 7,000 head of Tajima cattle are taken to market each year, of which about 5,000 carry the Kobe certification. In contrast, about 2.3 million beef cattle were slaughtered in the U.S. in 2015. The U.S. beef herd is currently estimated at 30 million and the total U.S. cattle herd (including dairy cattle) is about 92 million.

 

In addition, Kobe beef and other top grades of wagyu aren't like the beef with which most of us are familiar. It is more like foie gras than American Porterhouse steak. In Japan, Kobe beef is eaten in very small portions, thinly sliced and barely warmed. Many say the only cooking a slice of Kobe needs is what it gets on top of a bowl of hot rice. There's no such thing as a 16-oz charcoal grilled Kobe steak, as high heat would destroy the characteristic flavor and texture of Kobe beef.  Basically, top-grade Kobe beef can consist of 90% fat and 10% meat fiber.  USDA  Prime +, the top U.S. grade of beef, has a fat content of 10% to 13%.  That's a hug difference that determines flavor, texture and preparation method.

 

Tenderloin

 

The tenderloin (aka filet, fillet and filet mignon) is the most naturally tender cut of beef from any beef cow, no matter what it's breed, age or national origin. That's because it is considered the least used muscle on the cow's body. It's a very lean cut of meat, but the lack of fat also means it doesn't have much flavor.  Tenderloin is therefore regarded by chefs as the favored cut of beef for dishes where tenderness is important, but a lot of the flavor comes from other ingredients.  Examples would be Beef Wellington, Chateaubriand, Tournedos Rossini, Beef Stroganof and others. It's common for grilled tenderloin to be served with aromatic butter.

 

 

The Details

 

Some of the sillier comments on the Internet about wagyu are the result of sheer ignorance, but others depend on unrealistic expectations.  A lot of Westerners have in mind the best steak they have ever eaten in terms of flavor, juciness and tenderness and imagine wagyu will be even better because it is more expensive.  That's not always the case.  

 

The unique taste and texture of Kobe depends on extreme marbling, which is the distribution of fat among the beef muscle fibers.  The amount of marbling largely determines the quality of the meat, as a steak gets much of its flavor and tenderness from the melting of intramuscular fat during cooking. Marbling is measured on the BMS (Beef Marbling Scale), with scores running from 0 to 12. It is generally accepted that top-grade meat from Western cattle like Angus can achieve a BMS of 5 at the highest, whereas the MINIMUM for Tajima beef to qualify as Kobe is 6.  A BMS score of 10 would be considered excellent and only a few Kobe cattle a year reach 11 or 12.  Take a look at the chart at the bottom of this post for more info.

 

Genetics and centuries of breeding in geographic isolation have resulted in the Tajima and other wagyu breeds having marbling that is substantially higher than their Western counterparts. However, it's not just the amount of fat that makes meat from wagyu different.  The chemical composition of the fat as well as the dispersion pattern of fat among the muscles is not at all the same as in Western cattle.  When you factor in diet- wagyu are never feed on pasture grass- and a sedentary "lifestyle" for wagyu, the overall result is a radically different type of prime beef. Add to this that aging, especially dry aging, is important in imparting tenderness and flavor to Western beef.  Traditionally, wagyu (and Kobe in particular) is not aged longer than the time it takes for the beef to go from the slaughter house to  the end-users' kitchens. 

 

Tons of what's called "Kobe beef" are sold outside Japan, but extremely little of it is genuine. Demand for Kobe beef outstrips supply by an astronomical margin and nearly all the domestically produced Kobe beef stays in Japan. Prior to 2012, no Kobe beef was exported outside.  Today, only 10%, which is equivalent to about 500 carcasses per year, is exported worldwide. Production can't be expanded because of the shortage of suitable land in Hyogo and the huge price it would command.

 

But Japanese meat producers have allowed a limited number of wagyu cattle to be bred and raised in the U.S. and Australia. These cattle aren't necessarily the Tajima strain from which Kobe beef must come.  They are often crossed with breeds like Angus to improve meat yield and bring the flavor of the beef more in line with what is considered a "good steak" in most countries.  

 

Here's where the problem arises. There are no strict standards regarding what can be called  Australian or U.S. wagyu.  Those words could mean several different things:  1) they could refer to pure-blood wagyu cattle bred and raised in those countries; 2) they could mean cross-bred cattle with 50% or more wagyu blood in their lineage; and 3) they could mean wagyu "influenced" cattle that are far less than 50% wagyu.  In some cases, meat producers  outside Japan have called their products "wagyu style" or "wagyu influenced" without the source cows having a drop of wagyu blood.  They have based those claims on what the producers claim are the likeness of their meat to wagyu and possibly the fact that their cattle have been raised on a diet similar to wagyu.  That's misleading, even dishonest, but it's not illegal because wagyu and Kobe aren't protected designations in Australia or the U.S.

 

It comes down to this:  a restaurant owner in Pattaya or elsewhere except Japan is free to call a hamburger made from domestic ground beef marinated in teriyaki sauce a Kobe or wagyu burger.  A steak that comes a steer that's 95% Angus and 5% Japanese Black could be called U.S. wagyu.  That would be unfortunate if you're paying U.S. $300 for an eight-ounce steak that tastes identical to a $30 Angus steak.

 

So while there are no enforceable standards regarding what's Australian or U.S. wagyu, the reputable producers have set their own benchmarks.  One Australian producer guarantees that its top-priced wagyu comes from cattle that are at least 75% wagyu and the meat has a BMS of 8. Highly regarded U.S. producers have similar standards.  The same producers may also offer wagyu of a lower quality - usually a lower BMS - but the price will also be lower. 

 

Keep in mind that the top grades of steaks from  Western breeds in both Australia and the U.S. have a BMS of 5.  That's still top-quality beef in terms of tenderness and flavor.  The extra marbling that pushes the BMS to 8 or above may not always impart a flavor that's appreciated by most Western diners.

 

So how can you be sure you're getting what you pay for in terms of Australian wagyu in Pattaya?  Until the steak is on your plate and you've cut into it, you can't. And that assumes you're able to recognize quality Australian wagyu when you get it.  You have to trust that the restaurant owner is being honest and hasn't been deceived by an exporter, importer or wholesaler on the distribution chain.  If you know the owner or aren't shy, you could ask from where he has sourced the beef, what the BMS is and what percentage of Japanese breed the source cattle is.  He should be able to answer those questions, especially if he is charging a premium price for the steak.

 

Evil

 

 

[expatdude]

Thanks.

[Richmond72]

I've had a few bites of Yonezawa beef at a meal in Tokyo before.  It was good, but to be honest I don't remember much about it since I'm not super well versed in the finer points of luxury beef.  I think there's probably a lot of people like me who like a good aged steak, but don't know the details of BMS scales and what not.  Unless you really know what you're looking for, forking over big bucks for real Kobe beef is a bit like a wine novice buying a $1,000 bottle of wine.  It's a bit of a waste, really.  And yeah, anything being advertised as Kobe beef outside Japan is pretty much fake if you're not paying hundreds of dollars for it.  And even then...

[Nando9999]

I dont care how tender,marbled or flavoursome, I'll laugh at anyone who will pay $300 for a steak..

[Edge]

Thanks for that Evil.

 

Potentially a money saver methinks, in several ways.

 

Off topic - I recall you did a review on some Brit' style F&C once, but have you ever lifted the lid on what is commonly called Dory here?

[Harry Brown]

In Australia the Japanese export market was/is big, the main feature was the marbling texture that you mention, they were happy to pay big bucks for that.

 

The domestic market here is driven by the big supermarkets and breeds like Angus and Simmetel  are popular to the supermarkets because of  high meat to fat ratio yield, The marketing of the Angus breed has been very successful,this is driven by the big Supermarkets, who are not into quality so much but dollar return on yield there is also not as much timeframe between the killing floor and being presented in the meat cabinet. A body loses  around a kilo per day while in a natural ageing process (money lost), so that is one of many reasons why  sometimes the meat you buy may be tough.

 

Years ago the dominant breed was a poll hereford which IMO was a very good table breed,  a lot better than the Angus and Simmetel breeds, also before supermarkets took off there were a lot of smaller operators around and this breed was popular, also it was more normal practice to dry age beef  before sale to the public, this was before cryovac process took over.

[Edge]

............................. before supermarkets took off there were a lot of smaller operators around and this breed was popular, also it was more normal practice to dry age beef  before sale to the public, this was before cryovac process took over.

 

Ah the good old days - I remember the local butcher would show you a side of beef he had in the chiller and tell you to come back in a fortnight.

[just hanging]

Outstanding OP.......... was always curious but too lazy to check.    For me a prime [real prime] ribeye cant be beat.   

 

Like this one in Gauchos in Bangkok   

 

 

or like this one in Macau

 

 

 

Huge difference in Prime but much more expensive and some place tell a fib

 

 

OP, you post will help me when  order now, job well done and thanks

[Evil Penevil]

Thanks for that Evil.

 

Potentially a money saver methinks, in several ways.

 

Off topic - I recall you did a review on some Brit' style F&C once, but have you ever lifted the lid on what is commonly called Dory here?

 

Dory is a bit out of my comfort zone, but I'd imagine far more dory is sold every day than wagyu  or even Western-style steak, so dory has the potential to be a much bigger story.

 

Evil

[just hanging]

My friend took me and my "date" to Brunos for dinner last night for my birthday.  I saw the wagu steak on the menu, my friend said it was the best steak he ever had but I got the Australian rib eye, and it was great.  My friend wouldn't have cared if I got the wagu but I just couldn't do it when he was paying.

 

My "date" was overwhelmed with the place, and the prices.  She ordered Thai food but my friend had lots of oysters on the table, so I gave here a few, loved them so I ordered 3 morr, she loved them and the biggest she every saw.

 

so if you want a real wagu, now you know where to get it

 

 

 

 

 

 

[singlemanstravel]

 

Keep in mind that the top grades of steaks from  Western breeds in both Australia and the U.S. have a BMS of 5.  That's still top-quality beef in terms of tenderness and flavor.  The extra marbling that pushes the BMS to 8 or above may not always impart a flavor that's appreciated by most Western diners.

 

 

 

 

 

I always eat 9+ wagyu full blood in Australia so that's quite strange that "top steaks have a BMS of 5" is said.

 

Kobe isn't the best, it is one of the big three. Americans have been getting "Kobe" for years that isn't Kobe beef at all until after the laws changed to allow imports of it a few years back. Australia is full of full blood

 

The BMS value ranges from 4 to 9+. In Australia we do not grade BMS over a score of 9. Therefore any carcass that appears to be significantly better than a BMS 9 is given a value of BMS 9+.

 

 

the only real place to buy in Pattaya and get it fresh from Japan (not frozen, shipped on a plane chilled) is from Hickory Butcher https://www.facebook.com/hickorybutcher/

 

Maruya Station in Australia is where you get your beef from:

 

http://www.mayurastation.com/mayura/

 

[just hanging]

just checked the butcher site, pretty cool but this pic should not be included.  I turns this city boy off right away

 

I just want to eat the meat, dont want to see how they get it

 

 

I guarantee you, if brunos says wagu kobe, then it is the real thing.   first class operation

[Evil Penevil]

I always eat 9+ wagyu full blood in Australia so that's quite strange that "top steaks have a BMS of 5" is said.

Nothing strange at all, except that you left out some important words that I wrote:

 

Keep in mind that the top grades of steaks from  Western breeds in both Australia and the U.S. have a BMS of 5.

 

Full-blooded wagyu is NOT a Western breed of cattle.  The fact that you eat 9+  full-blood  wagyu meat in Australia in no way contradicts the fact that the highest BMS you'll find (except in rare cases) for Western breeds like Angus is 5.

 

 

 

 Americans have been getting "Kobe" for years that isn't Kobe beef at all until after the laws changed to allow imports of it a few years back. Australia is full of full blood

 

Genuine Kobe beef can only come from Tajima cattle born, raised and slaughtered in Hyogo Prefecture.  By definition, there can't be Australian or U.S. Kobe beef since Kobe beef carries a geographic as well as genetic specification. Wagyu only has a genetic specification.  As long as the meat comes from cattle that carry a certain proportion of wagyu blood - and they don't have to be full-blood - it doesn't matter where the cattle are born, raised and slaughtered.  They are still wagyu.

 

It's impossible to get certified Kobe beef from anywhere but Japan. Before 2012, Kobe beef wasn't exported outside Japan, so no beef called Kobe anywhere in the world except Japan could have been authentic.  But wagyu cattle - four bulls - were first exported to the U.S. in 1976.  They were crossed with Angus and other Western breeds.  In 1989, Japan lowered its tariffs on imported meat and efforts were expanded to create herds of wagyu outside Japan.  The goal was to export the meat back to Japan.  The U.S., Australia and to a limited extent Canada were seen as promising sites for "overseas" wagyu.  Because Japan and Australia didn't have a protocol for the export of live cattle, the initial Australian wagyu herd in the 1990s was built on cattle, semen and embryos exported to Australia via the U.S. 

 

You can read about the development of wagyu herd in Australia on the pages of the Australian Wagyu Association. Link

 

 The word "Kobe" is often used outside Japan as a marketing device.  Take this example from Australia:

 

 

Evil

[MSR]

 

Beef from wagyu is mentioned quite often on the punter boards and the Facebook food groups. Unfortunately, there's a lot of confusion as to what it really is, resulting in stupid (and unintentionally hilarious) comments.   I'm going to break down some commonly used terms, then give some  background.  Hopefully this information may be of help when you see "wagyu," "Kobe" and "tenderloin" written on a menu.

 

Wagyu

 

"Wa" means "Japan" or "Japanese style," while "gyu" means "cow" or "cattle," so wagyu translates as both "Japanese cow" and "Japanese-style cattle."  Wagyu is NOT a specific breed of cattle, nor does it necessarily guarantee high quality beef, although some posters give it that (incorrect) interpretation. Just like there can be tough, poor-quality cuts of U.S., Australian, Argentinian, etc. beef, the same can happen with Japanese beef. Wagyu should refer to the geographical origin of the beef, nothing more or less.  It gets complicated when we start talking about Australian or U.S. wagyu, i.e., Japanese-style cattle from Australia or the U.S.  More about that later. 

 

Kobe beef

 

This is the most misunderstood term of all. All Kobe beef is wagyu, but only a tiny fraction of wagyu (less than 1%) is Kobe.  The only real Kobe beef comes from the Tajima strain of Japanese Black cattle which have been raised on 262 small farms in Hyogo Prefecture in Japan. The majority of these farms produce one to five animals a year and the most any farm produces is 15.  To be considered genuine Kobe, strict standards set by the Kobe Beef Marketing & Beef Promotion Association have to be met. Only about 7,000 head of Tajima cattle are taken to market each year, of which about 5,000 carry the Kobe certification. In contrast, about 2.3 million beef cattle were slaughtered in the U.S. in 2015. The U.S. beef herd is currently estimated at 30 million and the total U.S. cattle herd (including dairy cattle) is about 92 million.

 

In addition, Kobe beef and other top grades of wagyu aren't like the beef with which most of us are familiar. It is more like foie gras than American Porterhouse steak. In Japan, Kobe beef is eaten in very small portions, thinly sliced and barely warmed. Many say the only cooking a slice of Kobe needs is what it gets on top of a bowl of hot rice. There's no such thing as a 16-oz charcoal grilled Kobe steak, as high heat would destroy the characteristic flavor and texture of Kobe beef.  Basically, top-grade Kobe beef can consist of 90% fat and 10% meat fiber.  USDA  Prime +, the top U.S. grade of beef, has a fat content of 10% to 13%.  That's a hug difference that determines flavor, texture and preparation method.

 

Tenderloin

 

The tenderloin (aka filet, fillet and filet mignon) is the most naturally tender cut of beef from any beef cow, no matter what it's breed, age or national origin. That's because it is considered the least used muscle on the cow's body. It's a very lean cut of meat, but the lack of fat also means it doesn't have much flavor.  Tenderloin is therefore regarded by chefs as the favored cut of beef for dishes where tenderness is important, but a lot of the flavor comes from other ingredients.  Examples would be Beef Wellington, Chateaubriand, Tournedos Rossini, Beef Stroganof and others. It's common for grilled tenderloin to be served with aromatic butter.

 

 

The Details

 

Some of the sillier comments on the Internet about wagyu are the result of sheer ignorance, but others depend on unrealistic expectations.  A lot of Westerners have in mind the best steak they have ever eaten in terms of flavor, juciness and tenderness and imagine wagyu will be even better because it is more expensive.  That's not always the case.  

 

The unique taste and texture of Kobe depends on extreme marbling, which is the distribution of fat among the beef muscle fibers.  The amount of marbling largely determines the quality of the meat, as a steak gets much of its flavor and tenderness from the melting of intramuscular fat during cooking. Marbling is measured on the BMS (Beef Marbling Scale), with scores running from 0 to 12. It is generally accepted that top-grade meat from Western cattle like Angus can achieve a BMS of 5 at the highest, whereas the MINIMUM for Tajima beef to qualify as Kobe is 6.  A BMS score of 10 would be considered excellent and only a few Kobe cattle a year reach 11 or 12.  Take a look at the chart at the bottom of this post for more info.

 

Genetics and centuries of breeding in geographic isolation have resulted in the Tajima and other wagyu breeds having marbling that is substantially higher than their Western counterparts. However, it's not just the amount of fat that makes meat from wagyu different.  The chemical composition of the fat as well as the dispersion pattern of fat among the muscles is not at all the same as in Western cattle.  When you factor in diet- wagyu are never feed on pasture grass- and a sedentary "lifestyle" for wagyu, the overall result is a radically different type of prime beef. Add to this that aging, especially dry aging, is important in imparting tenderness and flavor to Western beef.  Traditionally, wagyu (and Kobe in particular) is not aged longer than the time it takes for the beef to go from the slaughter house to  the end-users' kitchens. 

 

Tons of what's called "Kobe beef" are sold outside Japan, but extremely little of it is genuine. Demand for Kobe beef outstrips supply by an astronomical margin and nearly all the domestically produced Kobe beef stays in Japan. Prior to 2012, no Kobe beef was exported outside.  Today, only 10%, which is equivalent to about 500 carcasses per year, is exported worldwide. Production can't be expanded because of the shortage of suitable land in Hyogo and the huge price it would command.

 

But Japanese meat producers have allowed a limited number of wagyu cattle to be bred and raised in the U.S. and Australia. These cattle aren't necessarily the Tajima strain from which Kobe beef must come.  They are often crossed with breeds like Angus to improve meat yield and bring the flavor of the beef more in line with what is considered a "good steak" in most countries.  

 

Here's where the problem arises. There are no strict standards regarding what can be called  Australian or U.S. wagyu.  Those words could mean several different things:  1) they could refer to pure-blood wagyu cattle bred and raised in those countries; 2) they could mean cross-bred cattle with 50% or more wagyu blood in their lineage; and 3) they could mean wagyu "influenced" cattle that are far less than 50% wagyu.  In some cases, meat producers  outside Japan have called their products "wagyu style" or "wagyu influenced" without the source cows having a drop of wagyu blood.  They have based those claims on what the producers claim are the likeness of their meat to wagyu and possibly the fact that their cattle have been raised on a diet similar to wagyu.  That's misleading, even dishonest, but it's not illegal because wagyu and Kobe aren't protected designations in Australia or the U.S.

 

It comes down to this:  a restaurant owner in Pattaya or elsewhere except Japan is free to call a hamburger made from domestic ground beef marinated in teriyaki sauce a Kobe or wagyu burger.  A steak that comes a steer that's 95% Angus and 5% Japanese Black could be called U.S. wagyu.  That would be unfortunate if you're paying U.S. $300 for an eight-ounce steak that tastes identical to a $30 Angus steak.

 

So while there are no enforceable standards regarding what's Australian or U.S. wagyu, the reputable producers have set their own benchmarks.  One Australian producer guarantees that its top-priced wagyu comes from cattle that are at least 75% wagyu and the meat has a BMS of 8. Highly regarded U.S. producers have similar standards.  The same producers may also offer wagyu of a lower quality - usually a lower BMS - but the price will also be lower. 

 

Keep in mind that the top grades of steaks from  Western breeds in both Australia and the U.S. have a BMS of 5.  That's still top-quality beef in terms of tenderness and flavor.  The extra marbling that pushes the BMS to 8 or above may not always impart a flavor that's appreciated by most Western diners.

 

So how can you be sure you're getting what you pay for in terms of Australian wagyu in Pattaya?  Until the steak is on your plate and you've cut into it, you can't. And that assumes you're able to recognize quality Australian wagyu when you get it.  You have to trust that the restaurant owner is being honest and hasn't been deceived by an exporter, importer or wholesaler on the distribution chain.  If you know the owner or aren't shy, you could ask from where he has sourced the beef, what the BMS is and what percentage of Japanese breed the source cattle is.  He should be able to answer those questions, especially if he is charging a premium price for the steak.

 

Evil

 

 

Thanks Evil.

This is one of the most informative and well written articles on "Kobe Beef" that I've ever read.

Hats off to your knowledge, and your willingness to share.

appreciate this.

Have a great day!

[just hanging]

my friend in NY right now at one the top restaurants, he always gets his steak there......looks great but the check......damn

 

65 ounce porterhouse

 

 

 

 

[StrikeEagle]

I've had true Kobe beef in Tokyo, and Harris Raised Wagyu beef in the US. Both were Spencer Steaks. (AKA Ribeye) And, both were good; Incredibly tender and well marbled. Yet both types struck me as lacking a strong beef flavor, that I expect from high quality beef. Admittedly, my Kobe experience was a one off, but I've had the Harris Wagyu several times.

 

My basis of comparison is hand raised beef from local 4-H and FFA students. These animals are raised as school projects and are grain and grass fed. They are incredibly well cared for during their lives and the resulting beef is By Far the best I've experienced, anywhere. Generally, we've purchased Angus stock when buying a whole steer. In terms of marbling, and flavor, this meat consistently beats even the highest priced restaurant steaks. Every one of my friends agree with us on this. In fact, I now have a number of friends and coworkers who go with me to the local county fairs to purchase their own beef. A full steer will last a typical family of four for a year or better.

 

So, perhaps I'm simply spoiled.

[just hanging]

Well I finally did it last night, had a real Wagyu steak at Brunos.

 

Had a couple glasses of house red, a really nice wine....excellent

 

Asked the owner to make a chopped salad, he never made one so I showed him a picture. tomato, onion, salami, blue cheese chunks.....mmmm good

 

ordered medium well, and the owner who was eating with us, and both my friends were horrified so I ordered medium

 

when it came just to red for me so I cut it up and asked to be cooked a bit more, now just a bit of pink inside, outstanding steak cooked just like I like it

 

I was gonna pass on desert since I am doing low carbs, but they all ordered, so what the hell, chocolate souffle         mmmm good

 

that steak really was incredable and I am glad I tried it one time........ Brunos food is the best in town, not cheap but top of the line for an occasional visit.  

[Uncle-V]

Thanks JH! I need to give it a try.  

 

I am splurging on a Bruno's steak when I get back to Patts in August. No doubt about it! 

[just hanging]

Mata Hari last night.  Canadian Rib-eye